12th Day (Tuesday—15 April 2025) Cycling Along Lake Biwa to Omihachiman

 Our hotel offered a traditional Japanese breakfast buffet with welcome Western touches: plain and chocolate croissants, scrambled eggs, yoghurt, sausage, bacon, and fruit juices. Toshiro met us at the hotel and guided us to Omihachiman. The weather started out crisp, about 50F, mostly sunny with a tail wind, then light intermittent showers in the afternoon. The heavy rain was when we were stopped at a large mall for lunch and some shopping. Our lodging is an air B & B. One room had twin beds but most are floor futons.

Dog of the Day

Sitting at the foot of Mt. Hiei, Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine is the head shrine of some 3,800 Hiyoshi, Hie, and Sanno shrines throughout Japan, and was built about 2,100 years ago in the seventh year of Emperor Sujin's reign. When the imperial palace was moved to Heiankyo, Hiyoshi Taisha became a shrine of prayers to keep evil and disasters at bay in the new capital, and has been regarded by many people as the shrine of protection for the Tendai Buddhism since Dengyo Daishi（priest Saicho）established the Enryakuji Temple in Mt. Hiei.

Hiyoshi Taisha is defined as a syncretic place of worship, merging Shintoism and Tendai Buddhism, in the celebration of the three sacred gods of the mountain, or Sanno Sansei: Shakanyorai, Yakushinyorai and Amidanyorai. This syncretic Buddhism was fully supported by the emperors of the Heian period (794-1185) and the shrine was built in the Hiei mountains to protect the northeastern entrance to the former capital Heian-kyo (today’s Tokyo).

Hiyoshi Taisha is also known as Sanno Shichisha, meaning "the seven Sanno shrines" as it includes two great main buildings, listed as Japan’s National Treasures, and five secondary pavilions.

The star of the shrine: Masaru the sacred monkey

Nowadays however, most of visitors are unaware of the shrine’s prestigious history and importance, and they come to worship Masaru-san , the monkey 🐒 god, messenger of the Buddhist deities and protector against demons.  "Masaru" implies the defeat of evil, and the advent of luck. The little sacred monkey is considered a lucky charm and is said to ward off evil spirits.

Numerous representations of the little monkey can be found in Hiyoshi Taisha’s precincts. The great Romon Gate itself is protected by monkeys whose position facing the four cardinal points while holding the roof symbolizes their power of protection.

The environment of Hiyoshi Taisha is favorable to real monkeys naturally living in the surrounding mountains. It is not unusual to spot some of them in the vicinity of the shrine, while they are collecting seasonal fruits.

Really Old Stone Bridge

Manually carried by 50 men in festival parades. Poster below. Today was the last day of a festival celebrating spring.

Replica of the Original Shrine. Seems that shrines grow as more are added tear-by-year.

Toshio's Friend getting baptized.

Successive shrines get larger and larger.

Tiny Truck

Much of today's route was on side streets paralleling the main road.

Also, many bike trails.

Bromptons allow two Bike Fridays to Mingle

Ukimido (Mangetsuji Temple) is one of the most famous scenic spots on Lake Biwa on the southern shore of the Biwako Bridge. It is called Ukimido (floating hall) because it looks like it is floating on the lake. It was built during the Heian period by the monk Genshin (Eshin Sozu), one of the seven high monks of the Jodo-Shinshu sect, to pray for safety on the lake and the salvation of all living beings. The current building, which was rebuilt in 1937 after being destroyed by the Muroto typhoon in 1934, is a National Tangible Cultural Property. It was repaired in 1982. In the hall, there are 1,000 statues of Amida Buddha, which are said to have been carved by Genshin.

Tiny Car

From the Lake Biwa Bridge

Lunch at the Mall Food Court. About 5 levels above US mall food, Duane guided me to this chicken cutlet with Japanese curry and rice.

Okishima Island (in the distance, center) is located in Lake Biwa, approximately 1.5km from Omi-Hachiman City. It's the largest island found on the lake and is a registered Japan Heritage site. The population of around 350 people caught academic attention due to the global rarity of people living on lake islands. This is the only location in Japan where a freshwater lake fishing industry has formed. There are so many cats on the island that it is sometimes called the "Town of Cats."

The last half of today's route was on the trail that surrounds Lake Biwa, then we diverted to our lodging

in the small village of Omihachiman. 

Parade Celebrating Spring

Interesting Foot Wear.

Taiko Drum

Tonight's Air B & B.

My Dinner

Milling wheat flour at the restaurant.